Goodye New Orleans and New York. Now go book your trip

I hope you have enjoyed my Blog. Please feel free to make any donations you feel it is worth. Help fund my next adventures and read all about it. El Gordeaux.

Last day in New Orleans, walk over to Frenchman street as this weekend there is a “Louis Armstrong” festival.  You are never far away from one festival or another, most including local musicians and the roots of Jazz and more than their fair share include Sachmo.  Well it is Friday, unfortunately the music doesn’t start until tomorrow.  Today is involved in setting up and seminars.  We wandered back towards Bourbon street where we found a “Zydeco “ style band in a buy 1 get 1 free bar.  $6 a beer but with the free one that made them $3 each!  I am sure I previously mentioned on my arrival about “Big Ass beers for $3”?  Ah well, last day a few beers, live music and a million wonderful memories.  It was a great last day.  In the evening we wandered down to the Mississippi at the end of Canal street having dinner in the Hard rock Cafe.  Pleasant enough, if you have ever been in a Hard Rock they are all pretty much the same and to a standard that you can rely on although, the waitress didn’t really have much of a clue.  Guess I need to come back to search out some Creole and Cajun food. 

Flight back to New York and two more nights at the Gershwin and then home.  We did some touristy things in New York, walking around the streets an obligatory trip to Macy’s to furnish my wife with some essentials from the Clarins counter, another trip to Sam Ash Music and an evening at the AMC Cinema on 42^nd street.  26 screens, 13 floors summer in the city 90+ degrees......  What made this visit unique the air conditioning had failed.  The place was a sweat box.  Cleverly they allowed you to buy you ticket, go to the 13^th floor and just before you entered the cinema said that if you wanted a refund they would give it you there.  Most people figured “I am here now may as well stay”. 

So that was the summer with my brother and Paul.  Stars and Stripes a plenty, adventures and memories to keep us going for years.  I hope you have enjoyed my ramblings, what follows is how and where I booked which I hope will encourage those that have never traveled as an independent traveler to do so.  It is quite easy giving you the freedom to go when you want, where you want and how you want to get around.

ElGordeaux.

Our flights were booked direct with Continental airlines now merged with United.  Flights to USA from a variety of UK airports.  We went this time from Birmingham.  Flight prices vary throughout the year.  If you have dates well ahead keep checking online to see how it fluctuates and choose the price that suits you.  You can also pick your seats on line.  They only charge extra for premium seats with extra legroom not just for picking your seat.

Our flights were direct to New York from Birmingham.  I have on many occasions used my local airport which is Humberside to fly to New York and a variety of other places via Amsterdam with KLM.  This is a great option as local airports of this size are very easy to go through going out and coming back.  The parking is cheap, saves on fuel for the car and saves a long drive when you get back.  Often the flight prices are more expensive than flying from say Manchester or London but, the benefits in saving time to get to the airport, traffic delays, train prices generally levels the cost.  Also if you work out travel time door to door this could be a great option.  (ElGordeaux TOPTIP)

Soft drinks, headsets and in-flight entertainment included

I parked my car off car park at APH on Hams lane, Birmingham.  The company supply transport to and from Birmingham airport every 15 minutes 24 hours a day.  Rates vary throughout the year.  It is cheaper to book in advance and direct from APH.

I gave links to the Greshwin and Hyatt Wyndham in New Orleans earlier.  These can be booked direct with the hotel but worth looking on sites like expedia or Hotels.com to compare rates. 

A word of warning.  If you do not pay up front online check if taxes are included, we all have to pay them.  You will find otherwise that in the U.S. you will find that the rate quoted that book on could be subject to Purchase tax, local city tax and sometimes some obscure additional tax like they have in New York which funds anti terrorism!  Apparently. 

Make sure you plan your trip carefully.  Read reviews on sites like trip adviser.  Get the address of where you are going and take a look on Google maps.  Go to street view and move the little yellow man around the streets.  It gives you a great view of the neighbourhood, you can see what it is really like and as you wander through the streets you will see bars, restaurants and places of interest. Many of these have web links from here so you can have a good look at them too. (ElGordeaux TOPTIP)

Keep records of what you have booked or are planning so you don’t clash with anything else.

That’s it folks.  Go book you trip and make sure you enjoy it.  Tell em’  ElGordeux sent you.

Genuine TV advert on TV

Carriage ride in New Orleans

Greetings from NOLA

More Fried fish and more Kermit.

I hope you have enjoyed my Blog. Please feel free to make any donations you feel it is worth. Help fund my next adventures and read all about it. El Gordeaux.

So, our time in New Orleans is panning out very nicely and unfortunately coming to an end . We have seen lots of music, lots of different styles in a variety of bars and on the street.  A place worth a mention is La Maison on Frenchman street.  Monday night is particularly good for music.  We popped along and caught a great jazz band called The Royal Roses.  They played a full set, passed around their tip jar and sold some CD’s.  Very nice to have access to them from home.  They are also on Youtube and well worth a look. 

Thursday mid-morning Terry is off shopping somewhere, Paul and I decide to do a touristy thing jumping on a street car that runs up Canal Street passed our hotel.   

Street Car on Canal Street

We used “Zen” on our choice of street car selection.  We got on the first one that came following Dirk Gently’s advice that “you may not end up where you expected but you will end up where you need to be”.  Around 30 or so minutes after getting on the tram we were at the end of the line by the cemeteries. Still with Zen being our guide we walked around one, took some pictures and headed back to the tram via a supermarket, this is the cheapest place around ever!  I got a Mississippi mud pie ice cream and a bottle of Sierra mist for $2.00 and Paul treated himself to a new and much needed pair of flip flops for $1.00. 

We re-boarded the tram which took is back down Canal Street to the other end of the line.  This took us right to the Mississippi adjacent to the Algiers ferry.  So we got on it just for the ride.  It is a free ride that brings the Algiers inhabitants to and from the City twice an hour.  I do like a boat ride when I am on holiday.  Been on them everywhere from Benidorm taking tourists to Peacock island to a ride around lake Dal in Northern India by our own boat boy.  Always do a boat trip.  One we didn’t do which I wish I had is, the Nachez.  This is an old style paddle steamer that you can have lunch on listening to some Jazz. 

Natchez

Thursday evening, only one choice for us, Vaughan’s bar in the Bywater area.  We took a bus across town to a place where the “locals” go.  This is off the tourist track, we know of Vaughan’s as it appears in the T.V. series Treme.  Episode 1 shows Elvis Costello sat in Vaughn’s watching Kermit Ruffins.  Our turn tonight.

We got off the bus at Poland Avenue, heading down towards the corner of Poland Avenue and Dauphine Street.  We could see Vaughan’s from the corner but needed to eat.   We went in to a local restaurant, Jack Dempsey’s.  Funny this is the second restaurant with this name that we have been in on this trip, this one and one in NY.  This one says it “specialises” in seafood.  Terry passed on the chance to eat but Paul and I ordered their seafood medley.  My God.  A mountain of fried fish.  Initially it was OK but as you get into it and let’s face it there was allsorts of sea life on our plate.  Oysters, catfish, red snapper, but it was all deep fried, every bite tasted the same.  Everybody was taking bags of food out with them.  Enough to say we couldn’t eat it.  I guess it is what they like in the Deep South. Too much and too fried.  Still haven’t found that Cajun or Creole that they rave on about.  They “insisted” we take the rest with us.  Not wanting to offend we did.  After dropping off the fried fish in the nearest dumpster. This may seem mean but you can't take fried fish to a gig?  I would go to Dempseys again but next time have the lobster..... As long as they don't fry it!.

We headed into Vaughan’s.

 Kermit was Amazing and his band incredible.  This was a totally different set to what we had heard at his place last Sunday.  This has been a regular gig for the chap for the last 20 years.  The place was jumping.  Mid point they serve up Rice and Beans to everybody which was really rather nice, should have passed on the fried fish.  Next time Kermit, Rice and beans for me. What a night.  On leaving I reflected that it was like being in the middle of an alligator infested Bayou with the tin roofs and the overgrown jungle spreading wildly over the fences.  This place is so full of character.  If you go be brave and hunt it out you will not be disappointed.  Another Treme link “ If the taxi driver asks you are you sure this is where you want to go say “YES””

We are nearing the end of our time in New Orleans.  We have a full day on Friday then packing for our flight back to New York, two more nights back at the Gershwin then home.

Next.  Summary of the trip, how to book one like it and how make sure you get the best deal.

New Orleans Busking, "The Judge can hear you" and permit what permit?

I hope you have enjoyed my Blog. Please feel free to make any donations you feel it is worth. Help fund my next adventures and read all about it. El Gordeaux.

My faith restored in New Orleans.  (New Orleans no 4 I think) I was looking forward to the rest of our week.  Doing the touristy things of meandering through the streets, looking at the sites and listening to some of the street musicians we felt it was our turn to have a go in New Orleans.  It was late afternoon on Royal street outside the Louisiana state court house.  A building with a wide pavement outside that would be more than suitable for our busking efforts.  There was some steady footfall of tourists and we were far enough away from a guitarist on the corner as to not cramp his style.  We had around 40 minutes there going through our improving repertoire. I believe we were reasonably received by “our public”.

Time was moving on and we were going to see The Rebirth brass band tonight at their regular Tuesday night Gig at the Maple leaf bar on Oak street.  This was way across town from where we were in the French quarter so called for a taxi ride.  After a couple of Margaritas in the hotel bar we set off.  On arrival we needed dinner.  The Maple leaf wasn’t doing food tonight and the closest restaurant was “Squealers”.  Basically a BBQ pork joint.  It looked like it was a family business that had been in the same family for years.  The sort of place that families have been going for years which, over the generations sons of sons visit.  Nope!! Been open 2 years by a bloke that likes Barbequing.  It was quite acceptable, various bits of art work around the place all music related.  The art work extended to the table tops where they have been customised in the same style.

Full of pork and a couple of beers we wandered down the road to the Maple leaf.  Filling up now, extremely hot, massive crowd for a Tuesday night.  How come we can’t do this in the UK.  Now the Rebirth Brass band are loud, Very loud, made up of trumpets, trombones, sousaphone, drums amazing sound.  A fusion of high school brass band tunes, urban rap and jazz an incredibly unique experience.

I think it is very cool that it seen that playing a brass instrument is very very cool.  Small children walk around the streets with instruments learning to play while watching others.  The gangs they form aren't gangs they are bands.  We could learn something.

Next day.  We decided that we would do a bit more busking.  Off to the court house again.  We set up, started to play.  Very shortly in to our first tune an official looking chap came up to us.  “Have you got a permit?” Here we go again.  “No, I understand that since Katrina you didn’t need permits.” I said. “In any case the courthouse is sitting today and we can hear you inside so if you don’t mind....”  The courthouse is next to the police station on Royal street so we retreated, walked through Jackson square where proper musician were playing and set up by the Mississippi with Jackson square behind us.  It was nice just to be playing outdoor in the sun having fun. Video

We got a few dollars, but as I said previously it wasn’t about the money it was the fun of playing.

I decided that I was going to get a permit!!!  We visited the police station, they said they didn’t issue them we would have to go to City Hall.  Bit between my teeth 97^o with humidity that made it feel like 111 ^o we set out across Canal street and in to the business district.  Arrived at City Hall went through airport style security, got to the room I needed.  “Hi we are in town for a while, we are playing instruments on the street and would like to apply for a buskers permit please”.  I got a blank look,  I repeated myself. “Hang on someone will come out to see you”.  A rather pleasant chap came out and explained that they haven’t issued permit for a couple of years as the street musicians, performers, tarot readers are in dispute with the city and taking them to court as, making them pay for or, even having to have a permit infringes the first amendment of the constitution as they have the right of free speech and expression so, they no longer issue permits.  “Oh, OK” I said “ I guess I can just go and play then anyway”.  “No, I didn’t say that, I said that we don’t issue permits”.  I kind of got a nod and a wink and he wished me well.

So, no permit for me as a souvenir.  As it turned out we didn’t play anymore on the street after this as Terry got a bit of “Saxophone lip”.  A sort of technical malfunction in the gob area which looked a bit painful.  I played a bit on my balcony after that.

Next More Fried fish and more Kermit.

Bourbon Street, Fried fish and Kermit Ruffins

I hope you have enjoyed my Blog. Please feel free to make any donations you feel it is worth. Help fund my next adventures and read all about it. El Gordeaux.

On reflection there are a number of "New Orleans's".  Bear with me.  Because of my first New Orleans experience on that Saturday evening after arriving from New York by train after being in our Amtrak Cocoon, Bourbon street was a culture shock.  If you have ever seen Arnie in Total Recall when he first arrives on Mars looking for the bar with the 3 breasted midget woman in it with the mayhem going on around him.  Well Bourbon Street is wilder!  There were "Lady Cabaret artistes" on balcony's trying to entice young men to enter their "pleasure dome" by calling at them and throwing down necklaces of beads to them.  College boys on the street with big cigars shouting up at the ladies.  Signs designed to get you in the bars advertising "Big Ass beers $3".  2 for 1 offers and 3 for 1 offers.  And the noise!  So not really what I wanted right now.  If this was all New Orleans had to offer I think I want to go home.

We turned off the road of "Sodom and Gomorrah" towards Royal street and found a rather pleasant looking restaurant which right now will do for dinner.  I ordered the Fried catfish.  It was Ok but too much of it.  A pile of fries that would feed 4 people and all weirdly piled on a slice of bread.  I didn't ask what it was for,  maybe it was a "Big Ass" open sandwich?  But, I think it was there to soak up any grease or oil that came off my dinner.  Paul had a 3 pot combo of some kind.  It included Gumbo and Jambalaya and something else.  Terry had a chicken salad.  I think we had just been introduced to Creole and Cajan cooking? Not very impressive.

We wandered down towards Frenchman street "New Orleans No 2" which is famous for it's music scene.  But not tonight.  Seriously underwhelmed Paul and I headed back to the hotel.  Terry had been to New Orleans before so wanted to familiar himself a little more.  At this time I am not a happy bunny.  The first highlight of the evening?  I picked up a $20 note on a quieter section of Total Recall street probably dropped some College boy that had been at the special offers, Ha!  Second highlight, my hotel room.  Very Very nice.  The hotel is now known as Hyatt hotel French Quarter. It Just had millions spent on it and it looked like it.

My room

Muffins in the coffee shop in the Lobby area

The rooms were beautiful.  The beds super king size and memory foam mattress.











The coffee shop in the Lobby served breakfast and muffins.  Everything was always fresh and the staff very friendly.










Sunday morning, refreshed and ready for a new day.  Still a bit of reduced confidence from last night we left the hotel went straight down to Royal Street and headed east towards the Frenchman street area. "New Orleans No 3".  The French Quarter itself is quite beautiful.  Royal street and Chartres Street full of art shops, colonial balcony's, Ornate wrought iron work and tropical plants.  Incredible.  This version on New Orleans spreads throughout the whole of the French Quarter.  The residence really care about their houses.  Many of them behind high gates, very private.  The mood is lifting.  After a buffet breakfast at the french market we (I) am back on track.  I recounted to Terry at this point that I had discovered online that Kermit Ruffins had opened his own bar up on Basin street and that according to research plays there on a Sunday night. I knew it opened at 12 midday so, if we took a walk it that direction it would be good to find it, maybe have a beer and go back later to catch the man himself.  Kermit is a New Orleans based Jazz musician that has appeared as himself in the HBO series Treme.  A series about New Orleans in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.

We walked through Louis Armstrong Park up Basin street a little and there we were, 1535 Basin Street, Kermit Ruffins Speakeasy.  "New Orleans No4" This is where I was going to find the music I want.  And then some....

Outside Kermits place

We entered at 12 midday.  I need the loo.  After washing my hands I left the loo and the first person I walked in to Kermit Bloody Ruffins!!!

Hero worship. Me to him not him to me.  Not yet anyway.  Had a chat yes he was playing tonight said to me "I am on at 6 until 8 hope you guys will come over".  Try and stop us!!

Me and Kermit

Now Kermit is an international quality musician but, he likes it in New Orleans, he doesn't want to leave New Orleans.  He claims to be a chef that plays the trumpet.  Well he was doing the cooking today and blowing his horn tonight.  We stayed for a while had a few beers.  This is a great little bar.  We went back to the hotel after a while and returned before 6 to catch the show.  6 til 8 he said.  He came on a 6.45 and played until 10.00 Kermit Ruffins and the Barbeque Swingers.  Buy their Albums go and see them.  This is some of the happiest music on the planet.  Check out my video.  I took this on my phone.  Yes people are just walking in and out as the small stage is in the window of the bar.  The place was jumping.  How much did this cost?  Just the drinks we bought which were all very reasonably priced and at the end of the night Kermit shouted out "dessert for everybody".  his staff brought out a Hubix fruit pie for everybody, very nice.  As it turned out these will be pretty rare right now as the next day the Hubix pie factory burnt down.

Well we left after meeting lots of locals and musicians at Kermits place.  This was a truly fabulous day exactly what I wanted from New Orleans.  A guy we met in there, A lorry driver just about off his face on Southern comfort invited us to go to a bar with him a couple of doors down.  Now as a couple of white guys in the Treme district going in to a local bar would be a bit odd.  but, we were with a local and the natives were very very friendly.  He offered to drive us back to the hotel, we declined favoring the walk back and saving his license.

Next New Orleans Busking, "The Judge can hear you" and permit what permit?