So, our time in New Orleans is panning out
very nicely and unfortunately coming to an end . We have seen lots of music, lots of different styles in a variety
of bars and on the street. A place worth
a mention is La Maison on Frenchman street.
Monday night is particularly good for music. We popped along and caught a great jazz band
called The Royal Roses. They played a full
set, passed around their tip jar and sold some CD’s. Very nice to have access to them from
home. They are also on Youtube and well
worth a look.
Thursday mid-morning Terry is off shopping
somewhere, Paul and I decide to do a touristy thing jumping on a street car
that runs up Canal Street passed our hotel.
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| Street Car on Canal Street |
We used “Zen” on our choice of street car selection. We got on the first one that came following
Dirk Gently’s advice that “you may not end up where you expected but you will
end up where you need to be”. Around 30
or so minutes after getting on the tram we were at the end of the line by the
cemeteries. Still with Zen being our guide we walked around one, took some
pictures and headed back to the tram via a supermarket, this is the cheapest
place around ever! I got a Mississippi
mud pie ice cream and a bottle of Sierra mist for $2.00 and Paul treated
himself to a new and much needed pair of flip flops for $1.00.
We re-boarded the tram which took is back down
Canal Street to the other end of the line.
This took us right to the Mississippi adjacent to the Algiers
ferry. So we got on it just for the
ride. It is a free ride that brings the Algiers
inhabitants to and from the City twice an hour.
I do like a boat ride when I am on holiday. Been on them everywhere from Benidorm taking
tourists to Peacock island to a ride around lake Dal in Northern India by our
own boat boy. Always do a boat
trip. One we didn’t do which I wish I had
is, the Nachez. This is an old style
paddle steamer that you can have lunch on listening to some Jazz.
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| Natchez |
Thursday evening, only one choice for us,
Vaughan’s bar in the Bywater area. We
took a bus across town to a place where the “locals” go. This is off the tourist track, we know of
Vaughan’s as it appears in the T.V. series Treme. Episode 1 shows Elvis Costello sat in Vaughn’s
watching Kermit Ruffins. Our turn
tonight.
We got off the bus at Poland Avenue, heading
down towards the corner of Poland Avenue and Dauphine Street. We could see Vaughan’s from the corner but
needed to eat. We went in to a local restaurant, Jack Dempsey’s. Funny this is the second restaurant with this name that we
have been in on this trip, this one and one in NY. This one says it “specialises” in
seafood. Terry passed on the chance to
eat but Paul and I ordered their seafood medley. My God.
A mountain of fried fish. Initially
it was OK but as you get into it and let’s face it there was allsorts of sea
life on our plate. Oysters, catfish, red
snapper, but it was all deep fried, every bite tasted the same. Everybody was taking bags of food out with
them. Enough to say we couldn’t eat
it. I guess it is what they like in the Deep
South. Too much and too fried. Still
haven’t found that Cajun or Creole that they rave on about. They “insisted” we take the rest with
us. Not wanting to offend we did. After dropping off the fried fish in the
nearest dumpster. This may seem mean but
you can't take fried fish to a gig? I would go to Dempseys again but
next time have the lobster..... As long as they don't fry it!.
We headed into Vaughan’s.
Kermit was Amazing and his band incredible. This was a totally different set to what we
had heard at his place last Sunday. This
has been a regular gig for the chap for the last 20 years. The place was jumping. Mid point they serve up Rice and Beans to
everybody which was really rather nice, should have passed on the fried
fish. Next time Kermit, Rice and beans
for me. What a night. On leaving I
reflected that it was like being in the middle of an alligator infested Bayou
with the tin roofs and the overgrown jungle spreading wildly over the
fences. This place is so full of character. If you go be brave and hunt it out you will
not be disappointed. Another Treme link “
If the taxi driver asks you are you sure this is where you want to go say “YES””
We are nearing the end of our time in New
Orleans. We have a full day on Friday
then packing for our flight back to New York, two more nights back at the Gershwin
then home.
Next.
Summary of the trip, how to book one like it and how make sure you get
the best deal.
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